This is a celebration of all sorts of things I love, and the journey down a new road for me.
First the things that I love. Russet golds and greens found in fruit, namely russet apples and bosc pears. There is something faintly medieval about their skins, so old world and romantic. I think it is their faded colour. No bright reds or greens here. Just faded, almost tea-stained, mottled browns and dusty grey greens. Of course they taste wonderful, but seeing them makes my heart sing. I feel like they stepped out of some Pre-Raphaelite painting, or like some travelling troubadour will be snacking on one when he finishes playing Greensleeves for the townfolk.
Second, crème de marrons, or chestnut cream. That wonderful French confection of puréed chestnuts with vanilla and sugar added. It is the most dreamy spread, and wonderful addition to baking. If there is a jar or can in the fridge, you will often catch me snagging a spoonful just for the sheer pleasure of the texture and flavour. If this is something new to you, please, add it to your pantry. Think of it as a French version of tahini or nut butter, but richer, creamier, and sweeter!
I most love it in my Chestnut Cake. But today I’m adding it to these lovely little madeleines, another French invention. Somewhere between a cookie and a cake, this little cakelet makes coffee breaks so much more elegant. It really is all about the shape. Madeleines are most classically baked up in madeleine pans, with their iconic shell shape. But if you can’t find one, a mini cupcake pan will work also. Just adjust the baking time.
The next thing I love is cocoa nibs, and bourbon! Both seem to go together wonderfully. Yes, bourbon and chocolate were meant to hang out together. So it just seemed natural to let them hang out with the chestnut cream. Because cocoa nibs have no sweetness of their own, being just the crushed cocoa bean, their slight bitterness is a perfect way to balance the sweet chestnut cream. And the bourbon just adds the perfect depth.
So what about the new journey I’m on? Well, I just found out that I should be going gluten free. This isn’t some self-imposed idea because I think gluten free unto itself is healthier. I don’t. But if your body has a difficulty digesting it, then there is no choice. For me it isn’t even the digestion issue. I was diagnosed with an autoimmune disorder where my body is attacking my thyroid, mistaking it for gluten. Or something like that! Either way, it was the doctor who said that it really isn’t an option for me. The side effects that my body was manifesting were already enough to discourage me on a daily basis. So, it’s on to baking with all sorts of new flours.
But Jen, you already do this?! Yes, I do love baking with alternative flours. But now it will be with a newfound necessity, and not just the pleasure of the flavour of chestnut or buckwheat. For the most part, a lot of baking is already taken care of. These days, there are so many One for One, or Cup for Cup gluten free flour blends out there. Bob’s Red Mill is the obvious example. All of these blends are a variation on the theme of creating a flour blend that mimics what wheat flour can do. Primarily, bind and add structure thanks to that wonderful gluten molecule. This is what gives dough it’s stretchy quality and strength to hold together. Flours without gluten need the help from outside sources, such as agar agar or xanthum gum. Combining different flours such as rice, oat, millet or sorghum with starches like tapioca or arrowroot, and the gluey xanthum gum create flours that act just like wheat.
All this to say, that pretty well any biscuit, cookie, pancake, crepe, or muffin recipe can substitute the wheat flour for one of the prepared gluten free flour blends. So going forward, I will always be noting where it will work it a recipe. The challenge I have will be in any yeasted recipe like bread, cinnamon buns, brioche, pizza etc. Those are the recipes that I will be working hard to find, ones that will fool even Jim! And yes, today’s madeleines were made with Queen St Bakery’s 1 for 1 Superfood Baking Flour, made without gluten. And they turned out smashingly! Tender, fluffy insides with the perfect crisp exterior. And that little crunch from the cocoa nibs. ps, if you really don’t like cocoa nibs, feel free to substitute with mini chocolate chips.
Love Jen
Chestnut Cream Chai Madeleines
A cozy little cakelet, meant to be enjoyed with a cup of coffee or tea. Cocoa nibs, bourbon and chai spices bring warmth to these charming little shell shaped treats
Ingredients
- 100 grams (1/2 cup) sugar
- 2 large eggs
- 100 grams (3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp) flour (AP or Gluten Free blend 1 for 1)
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 1/2 tsp chai spice blend see Notes
- 90 grams (6 Tbsp) butter, melted
- 200 grams (7 oz) crème de marrons, or sweetened chestnut cream
- 2 Tbsp bourbon
- 1 tsp vanilla paste or extract
- 2 Tbsp cocoa nibs can be replaced with mini chocolate chips if so desired
Instructions
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Preheat the oven to 400F o 200C. Use softened butter to grease all the nooks and crannies of a madeleine pan.
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In a large bowl, combine the sugar and eggs with a whisk.
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In a separate bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder and chai spice blend together to combine.
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Add this to the eggs, and use a spatula to fold everything together till well combined.
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In the pot that you melted the butter, add the chestnut cream, bourbon and vanilla. Stir till well combined.
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Fold this chestnut cream mixture into the batter in the bowl. Finally stir in the cocoa nibs.
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Using a generous teaspoon, fill the madeleine pan to about 3/4 full. You can also use a mini muffin tin.
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Bake for 5 minutes. Then turn the heat down to 350F (180C) and bake for another 8-10 minutes, depending on the size of your pan. The madeleines should be completely set and a lovely golden brown.
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Place the pans on a cooling rack. As soon as they have cooled a minute, take a small offset spatula or sharp knife to loosen the madeleines, especially along the grooves. They should flip out easily. Let them cool completely. Store in a sealed container, for up to a week.
Recipe Notes
Chai Spice Blend, store in a sealed glass jar:
2 Tbsp cinnamon
2 Tbsp ginger
1 Tbsp cardamom
2 tsp clove
2 tsp coriander
1 tsp nutmeg
1 tsp allspice
1 tsp white pepper
Inspired by a recipe by Mimi Thorrison, on her blog Manger
Heidi
Jen, I empathize with the challenge of going gluten-free but I also know the journey you’re embarking on will allow you to stretch your creative wings! Our health is precious, maintaining it by baking creatively is well worth the effort. Thanks for this lovely post – I always appreciate the way your love of great food shines through in your writing.