Yes, you read correctly, rhubarb has left the sweet table, and entered the savoury world in my kitchen.
And it’s about time. I don’t know why I hesitated in creating an entire main dish with rhubarb as the key flavour ingredient. And yet, the more I thought about it, why shouldn’t it work? I mean, I already love using pomegranate molasses and arils in savoury dishes. See my Persian Fessenjan, and Brussels Sprouts with Pomegranate , Tamari and Pomegranate Glazed Beets, and even German Sauerbraten has a spicy tart aspect to it. Rhubarb has the same tart quality that pomegranate does. So it should work wonderfully as a bright contrast to the deep earthy flavours created when roasting or braising meats. It should work great with beef, just like sour cherries do, or with chicken the way tart lemons or limes do.
And so I decided to try it out for myself. I could create a braising liquid that used chopped rhubarb, but that would mean adding quite a bit of sugar to balance the extreme tartness of plain fresh rhubarb. But then I remembered that I had just made up a batch of Spicy Rhubarb Compote. It is deep, rich, just sweet enough, but with the exotic flavours of clove, star anise and cinnamon cooked in. Since it was already sweetened to a perfect balance, why not just use this compote as my cooking base for the seared chicken I was thinking of making!?
So this is what happened. I seared off chicken legs that I divided into thighs and drumsticks. It is less expensive to purchase the whole legs, and do the ‘leg work’ of separating them at home; but of course you can purchase ready prepared thighs and/or drummies. Or even just leave the legs as is. It may be harder to fit them all in when it comes time for roasting though.
Then in the remaining goodness left in the pan, I added some chopped spring onions. I used spring onions, because it just seemed right that if I was using the quintessential Spring rhubarb, then everything else should be Spring-y as well! I sautéed them till softened, and then added the white parts of some ramps (or wild leeks), minced. Again, it is because ramps are gorgeous right now. But if you don’t have ramps, no despair, just use a clove or two of garlic, minced. They got softened a bit, and then I added some wine to deglaze the pan. And then in went some chicken stock, as well as the rhubarb compote. As well as some more chopped rhubarb for good measure (I don’t want the rhubarb to be an after thought in this dish) And some Rose Harissa. Because I am in love with Rose Harissa!! And I had just used it in my Rhubarb Semifreddo most swimmingly! The kick and the slight sweetness to it is simply perfect for this dish. I stirred it all together into a lovely marinade, and then lay the seared chicken pieces back into the pan. If you haven’t been able to find it where you shop, you can pick some up here.
And into the oven to finish roasting. About 10-15 minutes before they are fully cooked through, I took some of the juices in the pan and basted the chicken with it. This created a lovely, crunchy glaze that deepened in colour as it continued roasting. Now, if you don’t want too dark of a skin (this doesn’t offend me) only baste it on about 10 minutes before removing from the oven. The chicken should be done in 25 to 35 minutes, depending on their size. Always check with a thermometer though, 165F to be safe.
Once out of the oven, I removed the chicken to a serving platter, and placed the skillet back onto a stove burner. With the heat at medium to medium high, I stirred it to create a smooth sauce. The chopped rhubarb will have melted into a velvety goodness. Then I tasted it. It did need a little sweetening, so I opted for a tbsp or so of honey. It was perfect now!! Rhubarby, spicy, savoury, a wonderful memorable sauce
To garnish this dish, it just seemed perfect to finish with the green leaves from the ramps that I used in the ‘gravy’ I chiffonade’d them and sprinkled them on the finished chicken. Of course, if you don’t have ramps on hand, feel free to garnish with chopped parsley or even mint!
I’m telling you, the flavour is outstanding!! The chicken is tender and juicy. The skin is perfectly crisp. But the flavour is what sells me on this, as the need to share it with you. The sauce is sublime in its depth and play of flavours and seasonings. The slight tart, heat, sweet aspect to it kind of reminds me of some Asian flavours. You can serve the sauce on the side in a small pitcher, or drizzle some on the plates underneath the chicken as you serve it. Or just pour it over the chicken and call it a night!
What would I serve on the side? It’s Spring, so I went with fava beans. They are just hitting the markets, and they are a dream to use. They may seem daunting to look at, but have no fear. Simply shuck them (rather like shelling peas, but as if you were suddenly the size of doll! The beans themselves get dropped into boiling water to become tender. This will happen in 2-3 minutes depending on how large they are. Shock them in some ice water to stop the cooking. The skins will slip right off with a slight pull, revealing the most tantalizing shade of bright Kelly Green! And now you can do whatever you want them. I love them in salads. So for this dish I combined them with sliced celery and chopped mint, dressed in a simple lemon and olive oil vinaigrette. It became the perfect balance against for the chicken.
So, please, I beg you, grab some rhubarb and make the compote. We still have plenty of rhubarb season left here in North America. Make up a batch or two of the Spicy Rhubarb Compote and freeze some of it. Find some fresh rhubarb, chop and freeze it. Then you will be able to make this well after rhubarb season is over. This is just such a fabulous way to celebrate the season without making yet another pie!!
Love Jen
ps, this post contains an affiliate link. 😉
Skillet Roasted Rhubarb Chicken
Using a spicy, thick Rhubarb Compote to create the perfect sauce for this roast chicken dish is a fabulous way to use Spring's Rhubarb bounty! Spring onions and ramps are also represented, making this a savoury meal that truly celebrates the season! Just add a lovely bright fava bean and mint salad!
Ingredients
Rhubarb Chicken
- 1/2 cup Spicy Rhubarb Compote see Notes for link to recipe
- 4 chicken legs or 6-8 thighs or drumsticks or combo of both
- kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper
- 4 thyme sprigs
- 1-2 tbsp butter
- 1-2 tbsp cooking oil olive or grapeseed
- 3-4 spring onions or 6 scallions trimmed, chopped into thin rings
- 2 tbsp minced ramp roots the white parts or 2 medium garlic cloves, minced
- 1/2 tsp Rose Harissa
- 2/3 cup dry white wine
- 1 cup chicken stock
- 1 cup chopped fresh rhubarb
- 1/4 cup finely chopped or chiffonade'd fresh ramp leaves if you don't have ramps, use parsley or even mint
- 1/3 cup rhubarb confetti for garnish finely dice some rhubarb to sprinkle on top
Fava Bean and Mint Salad
- 1 1/2 lb of fava bean pods this should give about 2 cups of beans
- 2 stalks of celery hearts the lighter, gentler inside stalks, if at all possible
- good handful of fresh mint lightly torn
- 1/2 lemon juiced
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 1/2 tsp each salt and pepper
- chilli flakes optional
Instructions
Rhubarb Chicken
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First things first, make the compote. This can be made in advance and stored in the fridge till needed. Of course, you will want to use it for toast, in smoothies, oatmeal etc, so make up a good batch!)
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Take the chicken legs, divide if desired into to thigh and drumstick, but not absolutely necessary) and place them in a bowl. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper and scatter thyme sprigs over them all. The bowl can rest in the fridge for at least an hour if not longer.
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When ready to sear, remove the chicken from the fridge. Remove the thyme but do not discard.
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Preheat the oven to 375F and place a rack in the middle of the oven.
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Heat a large cast iron (or oven safe) skillet over medium high heat on the stove top. Add 1 tbsp of butter and 1 tbsp of cooking oil (one that can handle high heat)
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Working in batches, place the chicken in the pan (do not crowd) skin side down. Sear until golden brown (this should take about 4-5 minutes, but gently check around the 3 minute mark- it will depend on the heat, adjust if the chicken begins to scorch)
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Turn the chicken over and sear the other side. Transfer to a plate and continue with the rest of the chicken. If bits of salt and pepper are starting to burn at the bottom of the pan, wipe with a paper towel and add more fat to continue searing the meat.
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Once all the chicken is completed, add the onion to the remaining fat. Cook til just starting to soften, about 4 minutes. Adjust the heat if browning too quickly.
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Add the minced ramps or garlic, as well as the leaves from the discarded thyme sprigs. Add the harissa and stir in.
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Stir for another minute.
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Add the white wine and bring to a boil to help deglaze any bits from the bottom of the pan.
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Cook till reduced by 1/3. This should take about 5-7 minutes.
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Add the chicken stock and the rhubarb compote. Stir to combine.
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Add the chopped rhubarb and stir in.
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Place the chicken pieces on top of everything. Bring the liquid to a boil.
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Place the skillet into the oven.
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Bake till the chicken is cooked through, this should take between 25-35 minutes, depending on their size. About 10 minutes before the chicken is cooked through, baste the chicken with some of the cooking liquid. This will create an amazing glaze on the meat. You can baste more than once if you want. If you find that it is browning darker than you would like, lightly cover with foil for the final cooking time. Check for doneness: clear juices, 165F using an instant read thermometer.
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Remove the chicken to a platter.
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Place the skillet back on the stove top and cook on medium high heat to finish the sauce. Stir to ensure that rhubarb melts evenly into the sauce. Taste and re-season with salt and pepper as desired. Depending on how sour you find it, you will need to add between 1 and 2 tbsp of honey. This is personal preference. Start with less and work up.
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Garnish the finished chicken with the fresh ramp leaves and rhubarb confetti.
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Serve the sauce on the side, or underneath the pieces of chicken.
Fava Bean Salad
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Shuck the bean pods to release all the beans.
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Place a pot of water on the stove to boil. When the water is boiling, add the beans and boil for between 2 and 3 minutes, depending on their size.
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Remove and place in ice water bath to shock them to stop cooking.
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When cooled down, gently pry off the outer skin (some will slip off quite easily!)
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Add the shelled, peeled bright green beans to a bowl.
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Slice the celery into narrow diagonals, add them to the bowl with the beans
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Add the freshly torn or chopped mint.
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Combine the juice of 1/2 lemon, the olive oil, and the seasonings. Taste, adjust if you would like. Drizzle this over the veggies and toss.
Recipe Notes
Spicy Rhubarb Compote recipe here
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